Tips for Travelers to Buenos Aires

HOME Tips for Travelers to Buenos Aires

If you are coming from overseas you will arrive at Ezeizah, one of Buenos Aires' two airports. It is about 30-35 kilometers from downtown, where you are likely to be staying. Figure 30 to 45 minutes.
Taking one of Manuel Tienda Leon's coaches is probably the best balance between cost and convenience. The buses are lined up outside as you exit (do not worry, you won't have a problem finding them), and charge around 26 pesos per person. For another few pesos they will actually drop you at your hotel in the downtown area. If you are two or more then taking a remise (car with driver) is more convenient. In 2006 a Manuel Tienda Leon remise regular rate was 72 pesos. Others will likely charge less. A remise is best arranged before you arrive, but not necessarily so.
Be careful of the exchange bureaus at the airport. In the arrival hall there is an exchange bureau, and a bank, within 10 yards of each other. The exchange bureau, or cambio, does not advertise its rates. You get to see the rate when you gett to the window. On one day in May it was 2.72 for the US dollar. The bank, a few steps away, was offering 3.03. You'd save $10 on a 100. ATMs gave a little less, about 2.96 after all fees had been calculated into the rate. All banks will not change money, so find out which one does before standing in line. You will need to show your passport. And you may need to spend 30 minutes or so if there is a line of people waiting for the teller. Also, find out when banks close - 3 p.m. on a Friday is possible.
Getting a good room rate at a hotel is a challenge. Almost all commercial web sites charge a lot more than what the hotel will settle for. And calling the hotel directly may not help either. Your best bet may be to get in touch with a few agencies in Buenos Aires. It will be even better if you can get the hotel to quote you a price in pesos. If you are expecting company book a double for the same price and be prepared to argue at check-out time when they try to charge you extra for your company.
Knowledge of Spanish or a phrase book is necessary. There will be times when you will need it.
If you are going in the Argentinian winter be sure to take a fairly heavy jacket! The temperature can get down to 0 C (32 F) and drop below 40 F every night. Also, some mildly dressy clothes will be useful if you plan to go to cafes/clubs in the evening. (You should.)
The meat is obviously great. The ice cream is too, though you do not have to lose sleep if you cannot get some. The best ice cream in the U.S. or some other countries can be similar or better. You should lose sleep if you cannot try the beef, or Argentinian foods like empanadas. A couple of places that can be recommended are: Cumana for trendy Argentinian food (and people), on Rodriguez Pena between Santa Fe and Arenales; and Desnivel in the San Telmo area (Defensa 855 - take a taxi at night) for meat. Try their chorizo (sausage) or grilled provolone for an appetizer, and tenderloin as the main dish, and be prepared to wait for a table.
Here are some places to visit:

The only cemetery that may make you forget I was in a place for the dead is the Recoletta Cemetery. It is kind of like the Taj Mahal (in concept, not in beauty) because you admire the present so much you almost forget the dead.
A four-hour bicycle tour of the city can be useful (biketours.com.ar). This is an excellent way to get familiar with the central part of Buenos Aires. However, you should be used to bicycling before attempting the tour - it gives a fairly good workout and you will be sore if you haven't been on a bicycle since puberty.
Caminito Street in La Boca is a good place to visit - avoid buying souvenirs there if you can, they are expensive.
Walking the length of Florida Street, window shopping, or having lunch at the pizza places there, is a must. You can get t-shirts and other souvenirs here, as well as more expensive items. But do shop a bit - prices vary wildly. A few stores had t-shirts with a faded look, and discreet lettering. About 20-25 peso was the asking price. You can buy t-shirts for as little as 5 pesos each.
The weekend fairs are wonderful to stroll through, though the Sunday flea market in San Telmo may not strike you as a place to buy things (it is great for people watching and general ambience). If you have an affinity for old pots and pans, or Argentinian nostalgia, go for it. They have good tango dancing too, if you do not have time to take in a show. The fair near Recoletta Cemetery is wonderful in its diversity.There is a store on one of the streets near the San Telmo fair that has good handicraft and souvenirs like posters - Chamote, Defensa 861. However, be aware that some of the stuff it carries can be bought cheaper at the Recoletta fair.
Take a train to the delta town of Tigre. When you are there be sure to take a boat trip through the river system. Choose a trip that is at least 90 minutes. The tourist office, near the McDonalds, can give you times and prices. Also, don't forget to walk through the market near the docks. You wont leave empty handed!
Palermo's park system is superb, and a wonderful place to relax. Some of the bigger parks are between Figueroa Alcorta and Libertador, starting after Scalabrini Ortez. The Japanese garden and Rose garden are noteworthy. At the latter you can rent row and paddle boats.
The zoo - also approximately in that area - was surprisingly engrossing. In addition to animals you may not get to see elsewhere (20-foot anacondas, capybaras) the more usual animals are well represented. And the architecture is unusual.
The guide books will tell you where to go, but do not hesitate to walk through the city. In winter, the weather is perfect for walking, the cafes always provide haven when needed and, if you prefer, you can be in your own world as you navigate the heart of a great city.