Tips for Istanbul, Turkey
June 2009
VISA: The easiest way of getting a visa is to obtain it at Ataturk
Airport. The cost varies. For U.S. citizens it is $20 - best to have the exact
amount. Beware! Don't just get into the queue at the airport. It is probably for
obtaining the visa. You first need to PAY for the visa, at a special counter.
Look for it, make your payment and obtain your sticker, then get into the
immigration queue.
MONEY: Unlike some airports, moneychangers at Ataturk Airport were giving
a reasonable rate of exchange for the U.S. dollar. There are also ATM machines
outside the Arrivals area. And you can change money at moneychangers in the city
- the rate differs from one to another, but not by huge amounts.
MOBILE PHONES: There are many theories about the best way to obtain a SIM
card, including one theory that the SIM card will not work for long. I obtained
one at the Turkcell counter at the airport. It took 15-20 minutes, and the
representative took my passport and entered details online. The SIM card worked
throughout my weeklong stay, without any problem. The initial cost is 25 lira,
which gives you minimal calling time. Purchase an additional amount as needed.
GETTING TO YOUR HOTEL: Many hotels, even budget ones, offer a pickup
service and it is best to take this. The second best alternative, if you have
reasonable amounts of luggage, is to take the Metro. This will take you through
most popular parts of the city, and probably close to your hotel. At most you
may need to transfer to the tram to get you closer, or take a taxi. If you are
taking a taxi then beware! You may easily be taken for a ride, so, either avoid
them, or have some idea of the distance.
GETTING AROUND: You will need to walk a lot. It is the best way of
getting through the Sultanahmet area, so be prepared for it. In addition, the
tram that goes through the area is an efficient way of getting around. Tickets
(tokens) are sold at stops, and cost 1.40 lira one way. Trams will also get you
to the Taksim area, the Eminonu docks, and the Kabatas dock from which boats
leave for Princes' Islands.
FERRY: The best (sometimes only) way of getting to certain areas is to
take the ferry. Ferries for Asian parts (such as Kadikoy) leave from Eminonu. So
does the ferry that traverses the Bosporus (the return cost for the Bosporus
trip is 20 lira). To take the ferry to Princes' Islands, take the tram to
Kabatas (just before Taksim). You will see the ferries in front of you - find
out which goes to the islands (Buyukada is the biggest island). They are not too
frequent, so it is best to look at the schedule first.
PLACES TO VISIT: You need to consult a guide book for this. But, the
three obvious ones are Ayasofya Church, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. They
are close to each other. Beyond these, there are dozens of things to see and do
in Istanbul - a trip up the Bosporus, wandering the different bazaars, a day at
Buyukada (Princes' Islands), trips to the Galata Tower area, to Taksim, and to
Kadikoy on the Asian side, and on and on.
FOOD: In the tourist areas you will mostly find Turkish food, though the
international fast food chains are well represented. The food, similar to
Persian food, is very good. Try the different kebaps, the donor kebap (known as
gyro, or Turkish kebap in Iran), the eggplant dishes, the corn on the cob that
is sold on street corners. The fish at the docks is extremely plain and not that
good. The sweets are also good - baklava, Turkish delight and helva.
PURCHASES: The most obvious tourist objects are carpets/ rugs and
pottery. Carpets are expensive, so you will need to know what you are doing.
Pottery is more accessible. If you do not have time to shop around, then the
official sales point at Topkapi Palace is a good place to buy some. It will not
be the cheapest, but you will probably not be ripped off either.
SCAMS: Unfortunately, being such a major tourist destination, there is no
shortage of scams in Istanbul. Be careful of the taxi driver who takes you round
and round. Or of getting short changed - even official places such as tram
ticket counters can do this, so always count your money. The shoe shine scam is
also common - do not get a shoeshine for any reason. It is not free and there is
usually a catch. If you do decide to get one, be very clear about what it will
cost. If you see a shoe brush accidentally fall in front of you, ignore it and
keep walking. Women sometimes run into amorous Turkish men, though it is most
often a benign approach. That said, you do not need to be overly worried - just
normal common sense should be enough.