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Getting There

You can fly direct to La Paz, but it will
probably be cheaper to fly into the Los Cabos airport. Airlines generally
offer better deals there.
Share a taxi into San Jose at a cost of
U.S. $6 (1996 prices) each. Or , depending on the time of day, make
arrangements to get to La Paz directly.
The taxi fare to Cabo is 100 pesos. A bus
will charge 7 pesos.
It is possible to catch a bus in San Jose
for La Paz, but it takes longer to get there, going by a tortuous inland
route. From Cabo buses take a more direct and shorter route.
From Cabo to La Paz the bus fare was 35
pesos, and it took two to three hours.
In La Paz the bus first goes to the
central bus terminal, but there is another stop on the Malecon. Since most
tourists will be staying near there it might be better to wait for the
second stop.
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One of La Paz's famed
sunsets. Viewing it from one of the restaurants on the Malecon, with a tub
of margarita on hand, perhaps a lady to share it with, is an unforgettable
experience.
The town lives up to its name: Paz means
peace if you didn't know it.
The earthly pleasures of nighttime Cabo are
attractive, but you should turn to La Paz when you have had enough of
Cabo's offerings and need rejuvenation.
Teeming marketplaces, good food, beaches,
fishing, canoeing, snorkeling - La Paz has all of these.
And the atmosphere is very different from
that of Cabo.
The fewer tourists means La Paz's Mexican
flavor is undiluted. Even the hotels do not convey the overwhelming
impression of Americana as they do in Cabo and other Mexican resorts.
The warm waters near La Paz are considered
one of the best fishing grounds anywhere. Famous for such aristocrats as
marlin, they provide other types of fishing as well - luckily for us.
If you are after marlin you should find out
when they are around. In May, for instance, they are scarce.
Other than the thrill of feeling a big fish
fighting at the end of the line, just being on the sea is reward enough -
as long as you don't get seasick.
There are plenty of outfitters to select
from. Some of the hotels will have them, or direct you to them.
The charge for fishing was $180 for two,
plus a tip for the boat owner, about $20.
You need to show up at 5 a.m. Then you
may be bused about an hour away to the east cape, where the boats wait.

An angler with a needlefish.
Getting marlin is a cross between fishing
and hunting: usually you see the fish first and then go out to get it.
Incidentally, the continental shelf is very
steep off this coast and you may be fishing in waters that are a mile deep.
If you have no luck with marlin the boat may
mov closer inshore, trolling with live bait.
Fishing can be better there: with rooster
fish, needlefish, some tuna and various rockfish. You can easily get
over 100 pounds of fish, which make good eating.
Big rock fish (red snapper and the like) are
hard to land because the water is too shallow - the fish take big
bait but then get down into the rocks.
The roosterfish has dark meat, which may put
some people off. But the meat has excellent texture and doesn't taste fishy
at all - a plus point for some people. |
Mahi Mahi

A big mahi mahi nears the
boat. They are also known as dorado, or dolphin fish, though they are not a
dolphin. You can freeze the fish at the hotel or with the outfitter, and
take the fillets back in coolers (beware! airlines frown on styrofoam
coolers!). You can also have the hotel kitchen cook the fish.

Hard to believe, but
these fish were used as live bait part of the time! |